How can you not love Naples? My favorite memory is going back to the hotel and seeing a nice Canadian girl who had been in the room next to mine storming out with all her bags. I asked why she was checking out, and she told me that while she was in the shower, the hotel manager came into her room and entered the shower itself, with her in it, and casually asked if she needed any soap. Naples is nasty city, and happens to be the only place I have ever seen anyone walking down the street with a “Chelsea Smile;” it also the world’s capital for superstition. The Fontanelle Cemetery holds an important place in the book, but there are other Neapolitan sites, especially the church of Purgatorio ad Arco–the home of one of the city’s most famous skulls and spirits. This is one of the bronze crania from the display outside the church.